Depending on your fabric type and pattern you may find yourself searching for bra lining fabric. There are a variety of options but I am going to go over three very popular and useful options to have you on your way.
What are the best fabrics for lining your bra cups?
- 15 Denier Nylon
- Stretch Mesh
- Sheer Bra Cup Lining
Why would you need to line your bra cups?
Bra cups can be made out of all sorts of fabrics however it important that the fabric used is very stable to hold the breast tissue in place. When you use a stretch fabric for example a stretch lace you are putting the cups at risk of stretching out which will result in poor fit. You can use a stretch lace to for your main bra cup fabric as long as you line the cup with a rigid stable fabric. Lining fabric will provide the stability, strength and recovery needed in a high quality bra.
What to look for in a lining fabric:
- Use a strong, rigid sheer fabric. If it has any stretch including mechanical stretch on the cross grain then cut on the bias.
- You should reinforce lace or sheer bra cups to diminish the stretch of the lace or sheer fabric and provide adequate support.
Quick Tip! Lining is also known as a stabilizer fabric. This type of fabric should be sheer and firm with no stretch. It is typically used to stabilize the bridge and frame of the bra. Lining is not necessary for duoplex, tricot or simplex fabric
What is 15 Denier Nylon?
15 Denier Nylon is a sheer lightweight fabric with light support. It is 100% nylon with mechanical stretch on the cross grain. When using this fabric to stabilize your bra cup it is recommended that you cut on bias because to reduce the stretch on the cross grain. “Denier” refers to the fiber thickness in the individual threads. A fabric with high denier count is thick, sturdy and durable while a low denier count is sheer, soft, and silky. (Source: www.standardfiber.com). A 15 denier nylon is considered a low count denier hence the sheet lightweight quality of the fabric.
Characteristics of 15 Denier Nylon
- 100% nylon
- Lightweight
- Sheer
- Low denier count
- Mechanical stretch on the cross grain
- Comes in a variety of colors
- Nearly invisible under bra main fabric
- Perfect for bra cup lining
What is the purpose of 15 Denier Nylon?
15 denier nylon is commonly used in lingerie apparel for lining bra cups that have a main fabric with stretch such as lace. 15 denier nylon is a sheer fabric that is virtually unnoticeable underneath fabrics creating the illusion that the main fabric is the only fabric in use. 15 denier nylon is also commonly used for pantyhose and other types of lingerie apparel including nighties, bodysuits and robes.
Outside of lingerie apparel, you will see 15 denier nylon used for dancewear because of its sheer and lightweight qualities. 15 denier nylon is a flowy fabric that moves with the silhouette of the dancer accentuating the dancer’s performance.
Why is 15 denier nylon good for lining a bra cup?
15 denier nylon is ideal for bra cup lining because it is a rigid, sheer fabric that adds virtually no bulk to your bra cup. The sheer quality of the fabric also gives the illusion that your bra cup is only made of the main fabric. It provides adequate support and comes in a variety of colors.
What is Stretch Mesh?
Stretch mesh is made of nylon and spandex. It is a versatile fabric that is primarily used in bra making to line a stretch lace cup. It has minimal mechanical stretch on the cross grain and is very stretchy in the lengthwise direction. This fabric offers great support when lining the bra cup even though it has stretch because it has great recovery. It is a strong durable fabric that is still sheer and lightweight making it almost invisible under your main bra cup fabric.
Characteristics of Stretch Mesh:
- Made of Nylon and Spandex
- Lightweight yet durable
- Sheer yet strong
- Mechanical stretch on the cross grain
- Very Stretchy lengthwise
- Great support and recovery
- Nearly invisible under bra main fabric
- Perfect for bra cup lining
- Comes in a variety of colors
What is the purpose of Stretch Mesh?
Stretch mesh is a versatile fabric that is primarily used for bra making, lingerie, and dancewear. Its nude appearance and light weight lends itself well to layering to create an even stronger garment. It is perfect to layer beneath a stretchier fabric for added support. It is often used for dancewear as its stretch properties allow it to move naturally with the contours of the body. It is also a breathable fabric with great recovery properties making it ideal for garments that conform to the body.
Why is Stretch Mesh good for lining a bra cup?
Stretch mesh is great for lining a bra cup because it is a strong supportive fabric with great recovery. It is virtually nude so it is practically invisible behind a bra cups’ main fabric while still creating a rigid structure with no bulk. It conforms naturally to the bodies’ contours and offers breathability to the wearer. You can find stretch mesh in a variety of colors as well.
What is Sheer Bra Cup Lining
Sheer bra cup lining is a strong, supportive fabric made of 100% nylon. It is used to line under stretch lace, sheer fabric or delicate fabric. It can also be used for the bridge and frame of a bra because of its minimal to no stretch characteristics. It is soft to the touch yet rigid. It adds reinforcement that is almost invisible where needed on a variety of lingerie garments. Sheer bra cup lining is also known as marquisette.
Characteristics of Sheer Bra Cup Lining
- 100% nylon
- Minimal to no stretch
- Strong and supportive
- Invisible reinforcement
- Lightweight
- Sheer
- Great for bra cup lining
What is the purpose of sheer bra cup lining?
Sheer bra cup lining is used to stabilize key areas of lingerie garments busch at bra cups, the bra bridge and bra frame. It is used for reinforcing corsets, bustiers and garter belts. It is practically invisible which lends itself well to reinforcing delicate fabrics used in lingerie apparel.
Why is Sheer Bra Cup Lining good for lining bra cups?
The name of this fabric is very on point and probably needs little explanation but I will elaborate anyway. It is used to line bra cups because it meets all the criteria needed to be a reliable stabilizer fabric. It is rigid in structure, sheer in appearance, lightweight, has no stretch and supports the breast tissue well.
Best practices when sewing with 15 Denier Nylon, Stretch Mesh, or Sheer Bra Cup Lining:
If you are sewing 15 denier nylon, stretch mesh, or sheer bra cup lining to a stretchy fabric in order to stabilize your bra cup it is important you take into consideration the sewing needs of the stretch fabric first.
15 denier nylon has some mechanical stretch but ultimately does not need a special machine needle if sewn alone. Sheer bra cup lining has no stretch so you can use a universal needle as well when sewing this fabric without a stretchy knit. However, if you are sewing either fabric to a stretch fabric or using the stretch mesh use a ball-point needle or stretch needle on your standard home sewing machine. This is a finer tip needle that doesn’t break the fibers. Rather the needle point separates the fibers which is important for maintaining strength when sewing a stretch fabric.
Other best practices include:
Best Stitch Type:
- Zig-zag Stitch
- 3 Step Zig-zag Stitch
These are strong stitches that essentially encase the raw edge of the fabric by wrapping the threads around the edge and locking them in place. The 3 step zig-zag takes the same form as a standard zig-zag but it makes three straight stitches from one point to the next point of the zig zag. The 3 step zig-zag is stronger than the standard zig-zag which is preferable for lingerie since it allows the fabric to stretch while being worn.
Best Thread:
When it comes to bra making and lingerie sewing a polyester thread is highly recommended. Polyester thread is stronger than cotton. Cotton is likely to break as it cannot withstand the stretch necessary for bras and other lingerie. Stretch is a vital feature in all lingerie whether that be with your fabric or notions. Thread is no exception. My favorite brand it Gutermann which can find at several retailers.
Where can I find these materials?
Check out my Recommended Fabrics page for more information on where to purchase these fabrics and other supplies!
Conclusion
There are several options for what is best to use as fabric for lining a bra cup. I mentioned three here but feel free to experiment as you become more comfortable with bra making. One more fabric that people use but I didn’t mention here is tulle. Tulle is also a rigid, sheer fabric that is supportive yet almost invisible. It’s worth checking out in addition to the three outlined above. Hope you found this helpful!
Happy bra making!
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