If you have been sewing for awhile you may be looking for new ways to advance your skills. Bra making and lingerie sewing can seem intimidating but if you are an ambitious sewist looking to conquer a new challenge bra making is right up your alley. Funny enough once you do dive into sewing lingerie you will probably ask yourself what all the fuss was about! Yes, it is a bit more tedious but it is definitely doable and pretty satisfying as well!
How To Get Started Sewing Lingerie?
- Assess your current sewing skills
- Do you have the right tools?
- Do you have a pattern in mind?
- Do you know where to get the right supplies?
- Get started!
Assess your current sewing skills:
Do you need a confidence booster to get you to take the plunge? Now that you are thinking about bra making and sewing lingerie why not assess your current skills. You don’t need to have been sewing for any length of time to qualify yourself to move into sewing lingerie. You can sew lingerie as your first sewing project and continue sewing lingerie and never sew anything else.
However, keep in mind that like with any new project you want to tackle make room for error and be kind to yourself. Do not expect to sew anything including lingerie perfectly on the first try or even the second or third try. Sewing well takes time and patience. Sewing lingerie is considered an advanced skill but if you start small like a pair of underwear you can quickly build those skills. Here are some skills you need to nurture as you begin your lingerie sewing journey:
Sewing lingerie means you need to understand how to sew knit/stretchy fabric. Sewing with knit fabric requires a few things to improve the strength and quality of your garment. These things include:
- Using the correct machine needle
- Using the proper thread
- Setting your machine for the proper stitch
- Troubleshooting your machine when problems arise
Lingerie-Making Tools & Supplies:
Machine Needles:
Your sewing machine should have come with a universal needle. It probably came with a few extra needles as well. Those extras may just be universal or they may be a different size. When starting out you can use a universal needle but eventually you should invest in a ball-point needle or stretch needle. This is a finer tip needle that doesn’t break the fibers. Rather the needle point separates the fibers which is important for maintaining strength when sewing a knit fabric.
Thread:
When it comes to bra making and lingerie sewing a polyester thread is highly recommended. Polyester thread is stronger than cotton. Cotton is likely to break as it cannot withstand the stretch necessary for bras and other lingerie. Stretch is a vital feature in all lingerie whether that be with your fabric or notions. Thread is no exception. My favorite brand it Gutermann which can find at several retailers.
Stitch Type:
- Zig-zag Stitch
- 3 Step Zig-zag Stitch
If you do not have an overlock machine the zig-zag and 3 step zig-zag stitch are right for you. The zigzag stitch is just that- a zigzag. It is a strong stitch that locks in the raw edge of the fabric tightly but still allows stretch because of the zigzag motion of the thread. The 3 step zig-zag takes the same form but it makes three straight stitches from one point to the next point of the zig zag. The 3 step zig-zag is stronger than the standard zig-zag which is preferable for lingerie since it allows the fabric to stretch while being worn.
Troubleshooting Your Machine:
Its bound to happen. Your machine goes on the fritz. It has happen to me many times. Some common issues are your needle needs to be replaced, your machine needs to be cleaned and oiled, you’re using the wrong thread, your thread tension is too high or too low, you did not thread your machine properly, your bobbin thread is tangled or stuck, or presser foot is too tight or too loose. Always refer to your machine’s manual for the best instructions on how to to troubleshoot your machine. Knowing your manual is a must and will make your life so much easier when problems arise.
Now that you are familiar with the skills needed to begin sewing lingerie let’s take a look at some free bra and underwear patterns that can get you started on your journey. Take a look at the 5 free bra patterns and 5 free underwear patterns I have listed below:
Free Beginner Patterns:
5 Free Bra Patterns
Barrett Bralette by Madalynne Intimates
- Description: Pull on sport-inspired bra with adjustable straps
- Level: Beginner friendly
- Sizes: XS-3XL
- Format: PDF download
Milla Bralette by Mood Fabrics
- Description: Versatile pattern that can be used as a bralette, bralette as a top, or a swim top.
- Level: Beginner friendly
- Sizes: 2-30
- Format: PDF download
- Description: Light support and modest coverage intended as a summer undergarment. This pattern has the option of adding modesty cups. It is not recommended for those over a C cup.
- Level: Beginner friendly
- Sizes: 30″-34″(S), 34″-38″(M), 38″-42″(L), 42-44″(XL)
- Format: PDF download
Sierra DIY Bralette by Madalynne Intimates
- Description: Halter wrap-round bra
- Level: Very Beginner friendly – no cups, underwire or channeling
- Sizes: XS-L
- Format: PDF download
- Description: Supportive, comfortable day wear bra with underwire
- Level: Intermediate to advanced
- Sizes: Cup size B to J
- Format: PDF download
5 Free Underwear Patterns
Noelle DIY Underwear by Madalynne Intimates
- Description: High-waisted everyday style
- Level: Beginner friendly
- Sizes: XS-3XL
- Format: PDF download
Free Multi-Size Pattern to Make Your Own Undies by So Sew Easy
- Description: Easy stretch lace cheeky undies
- Level: Beginner
- Sizes: Extra small – hips 32-34, Small – 35-37, Medium – 38-40, Large – 41-43
- Format: PDF download
Rosy Ladyshorts by Cloth Habit
- Description: Everyday hip-hugging boyshorts
- Level: Beginner
- Sizes: 8 sizes
- Format: PDF download
- Description: Hipster style underwear
- Level: Beginner
- Sizes: S, M, L
- Format: PDF download
Be Bashful Bikini by At First Blush Patterns (That’s me!)
- Description: Versatile bikini underwear
- Level: Beginner
- Sizes: XS-XL
- Format: PDF download
Tools and Supplies Needed:
You could go crazy getting all the tools useful for bra making and sewing lingerie but since you are just embarking on your lingerie journey here are the main necessities.
Main go-tos: Home sewing machine with a zigzag stitch option, ball-point machine needle, polyester thread, silk pins, rotary cutter, cutting mat, and applique trimmer.
Where can you find these materials?
Check out my recommendations on my Recommended Products page!
Just do it!
I hope this article has given you some confidence to embark on your lingerie and bra making journey. There are so many great patterns out there for free and you likely have most of the supplies needed in your sewing toolbox. So what are you waiting for? Go forth and sew lingerie!
Happy Sewing!