Your Guide to Bra and Lingerie Making Books

Bra Making Books

If you are getting serious about bra making and lingerie design it may be time to pick up a trusty book to have by your side.  While there isn’t a large array of choices you will find that some industry leaders have written books that have everything a home sewist or aspiring custom bra maker will need.    

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What are some Bra and Lingerie Making Books available?

There are definitely a lot to choose from whether you are a home sewist improving your craft, a sewist looking to become a custom bra maker or a sewist with an interest in vintage lingerie there is an option for you.  Let’s take a deeper look into each book to find out which is for you.

Guide to Bra and Lingerie Making Books

Bare Essentials: Bras – Third Edition: Construction and Pattern Design for Lingerie Design by Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks

Description: Bare Essentials is a thorough guide on how to understand bra design, apply proper sewing construction techniques while also deep diving into pattern drafting and grading.  It is divided into three sections: Beginner, Intermediate and Advanced.  The Beginner section teaches you how to sew and construct a bra using Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbank’s Porcelynne patterns which are included with the book.  The Intermediate section discusses pattern manipulation techniques to create your own custom design.  Finally, in the Advanced section you are taught how to design your own custom bra using Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbank’s pattern drafting and manipulation method.

Rating: 4.5 stars on Amazon.com as of this writing

Sewist Reviews: I have owned this book for quite some while and I have read over it several times and find myself referring to it often.  It has taught me so much about lingerie design that I would highly recommend it to anyone who is interested in custom bra design, construction and drafting methods. Even if you are simply looking for a great reference book to add to your library this is a must-have book.  

Bare Essentials: Underwear: Construction and Pattern Drafting for Lingerie Design by Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks

Description: Bare Essentials Underwear is the go-to book for learning how to design underwear. Just like Bare Essentials: Bras, this book is divided into three sections: Beginner, Intermediate and Advanced. This book will teach you the basics of construction, pattern drafting, and grading.  It also dives into stretch fabrics and elastics which is invaluable knowledge for any aspiring lingerie designer or sewist who loves to sew lingerie. Porcelynne briefs and boy short patterns are included with this book.

Rating: 3.5 stars out of 5 on Amazon.com as of this writing 

Sewist Reviews: Despite the 3.5 star rating this is one of my favorite books.  I refer to it quite often when designing underwear, writing tutorials or just to brush up on my underwear design knowledge.  It is broken down in a clear and concise manner that is great for all levels of sewists.  The patterns used are basic but meant to be manipulated into whatever design you would like once you are comfortable with drafting. I have read this book over multiple times to make sure I have a good understanding of the teachings and have learned so much. I highly recommend this book for your sewing library. 

Demystifying Bra Fit and Construction by Norma Loehr 

Description: Norma Loehr is well known for her beautiful and modern line of bra patterns, Orange Lingerie.  Her wealth of knowledge on bra making has led her to write Demystifying Bra Fit and Construction which is a great resource for the home sewist or aspiring lingerie designer.  This book teaches you how to construct, fit and sew a professional looking bra.  While this book does not come with a bra pattern it will provide you with the knowledge you need to fit and sew any bra not just Orange Lingerie bra patterns.

Rating: 4.1 stars out of 5 stars on Amazon.com as of this writing

Sewist Reviews: Reviewers think this book is great for anyone with basic sewing knowledge.  If you already have a bra pattern you would like to alter this is the book for you.  Also, as mentioned above, this book does not come with an existing pattern nor does it teach you how to draft your own pattern.

How to Make Custom Fit Bras and Lingerie by Don McCunn

Description: Don McCunn shares his decades of experience on creating your own custom fit lingerie.  This book will teach you how to draft, fit and sew five types of bras, bikinis and thongs.  It also discusses how to create a garment with an interior bra for sleepwear, tops or dresses.  McCunn also shows the reader how to make a “mini-me” dress form (only from waist-down) to test your fabric and develop a prototype of your garment. How awesome is that?

Rating: 4.6 stars out of 5 stars on Amazon.com as of this writing

Sewist Reviews: Reviewers really love this book as it has helped many women with larger bust sizes (although one reviewer disagreed with this) or who do not wear a standard RTW bra size.  This book has helped many sewist achieve the fit they were looking for and are now happy with their bras.  

Lingerie Design: A Complete Course by Pamela Powell

Description: Pamela Powell combines inspirational images from 30 lingerie designers with her practical approach to designing lingerie for the home sewist or aspiring lingerie designer. This book covers how to design and construct lingerie, sleepwear, and foundation garments. She discusses the appropriate fabrics needed for lingerie and even demonstrates advanced techniques including boning, elastic, lace insertion and closures.  This book if wonderful for the advanced sewist familiar with pattern drafting and design.

Rating: 4.5 stars out of 5 stars on Amazon.com as of this writing

Sewist Reviews: This book was highly praised by reviewers.  Many felt that in order to really absorb the knowledge provided in this book you must have at least intermediate pattern drafting skills while the more advanced reviewers pointed out that there were inconsistencies with some of the diagrams and measurements. 

Make & Fit Bralettes: The Get Me Started Version by Beverly Johnson

Description: Beverly Johnson, also known as the Fairy Bra Mother has put together an excellent manual on how to make and fit bralettes that actually fit! She discusses how to determine your correct bralette size then demonstrates techniques on how to achieve the perfect fit.  You will learn all about fabrics, lace, elastics and hardware in this book including how to mirror lace. It also goes over in detail how to sew with knit fabrics and foam lining.  Not only will you learn how to make your very own basic bralette but Beverly also teaches you how to modify a basic bralette into RTW styles including a swim top, nursing bra, mastectomy bra, or night slip. 

Rating: No specific ratings for this book on Etsy but Beverly Johnson’s Etsy shop has a 5 star rating as of this writing.

Sewist Reviews: Reading through some of the reviews for Beverly Johnson’s shop, Bra Making Supplies, reviewers find this to be a great resource for anyone who loves to sew lingerie. 

Make & Fit Panties: The Book to Get You Started by Beverly Johnson

Description: If you are looking for a good introductory book on how to make underwear this is a great guide.  Just as the title says – this is “the book to get you started”.  Make and Fit Panties will teach you how to draft a basic pair of underwear and boy shorts.  You will then learn how to modify these basic patterns to different styles.  You will also learn all about fabrics, lace, and elastics in this book. It also goes over in detail construction techniques and  how to sew with knit fabrics.

Rating: No specific ratings for this book on Etsy but Beverly Johnson’s Etsy shop has a 5 star rating as of this writing.

Sewist Reviews: Reading through some of the reviews for Beverly Johnson’s shop, Bra Making Supplies, reviewers find her books to be great resources for anyone who loves to sew lingerie or wants to learn. 

Make & Fit Your Own Bra: The Book to Get You Started Sewing Your Own Bra by Beverly Johnson

Description: Another awesome bra making resource from the Fairy Bra Mother.  This book from the Make and Fit series will teach you how to make and fit a full band and partial band bra. Beverly recommends this for beginning bra makers and teachers alike.  It has detailed step-by-step instructions with lots of diagrams and photos to accompany the lessons. 

Rating: No specific ratings for this book on Etsy but Beverly Johnson’s Etsy shop has a 5 star rating as of this writing.

Sewist Reviews: Reading through some of the reviews for Beverly Johnson’s shop, Bra Making Supplies, reviewers find her books to be great resources for anyone who loves to sew lingerie or wants to learn. 

Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear Second Edition by Ann Haggar

Description: Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear teaches the sewist how to sew and draft a wide range of negative-ease garments.  Ann Haggar provides several blocks and patterns for you to learn from and gives you background information on the reasons the industry uses certain types of methods of drafting.  You will also learn how to create a professional looking garment and understand how to choose fabric for your desired pattern.

Rating: 4.4 stars out of 5 on Amazon.com as of this writing

Sewist Reviews: This is a very well-reviewed book. What sewist love about it is that it has many patterns to use and learn from.  What sewist did not love is that the print is extremely small and sometimes hard to read. Overall, this book is used in universities to teach lingerie, beachwear and leisurewear design.  It is a great resource for students, home sewists and aspiring lingerie designers. 

Patternmaking for Underwear Design Second Edition by Dr. Kristina Shin

Description: Dr. Kristina Shin’s book, Patternmaking for Underwear Design has been widely used within the apparel industry and in university instruction.  It teaches the reader about common bra making methods used in the industry.  Dr. Shin has also developed her own method which she discusses in this book. Her method will teach you to create a variety of bra designs that have a commercial fit quality. This book uses a 34B bra size in the examples but teaches the reader a grading method to modify the size.

Rating: 4.2 stars out of 5 on Amazon.com as of this writing.

Sewist Reviews: This book generally has good reviews but many found it to be too technical as well as having measurements with no reference point that can be confusing for the reader.  It also does not include any information on how to sew underwear.  Many reviewers suggest that you should have a strong technical understanding of sewing and pattern drafting before you dive into this book.

Sewing Lingerie: Singer Sewing Reference Library by The Editors

Description: This Singer Sewing Reference book on Sewing Lingerie is a great addition to any sewist’s library.  While this book focuses more on sewing techniques rather than pattern drafting it will teach you how to modify your favorite commercial lingerie patterns. This book is a great resource for understanding lingerie fabrics, trims and other decorative elements; however, it does not cover intermediate to advanced bra making techniques.

Rating: 4.6 stars out of 5 on Amazon.com as of this writing

Sewist Reviews: Reviewers love this book for its simplicity and recommend it for beginners in lingerie sewing.  If you are looking to learn how to draft and sew more complicated pieces of lingerie such as a bra this probably is not the book for you.  It does have a lot of great sewing techniques for knit fabrics, elastics, lace and embellishments that can be added to any garment which is great information for all sewists.

Sewing Lingerie That Fits: Stylish Underwear, Sleepwear, and Loungewear for Everyday Living by Karen Morris

Description: Sewing Lingerie That Fits is your guide on creating your own custom made lingerie wardrobe. While this book does not come with patterns it will guide you on pattern selection on all types of lingerie including bras.  This book also details how to choose fabric as well as sewing techniques for elastics and decorative elements.  The author wants to make beautiful lingerie accessible to everyone especially those that are petite or plus-sized who may struggle with RTW options.  

Rating: 4.1 stars out of 5 on Amazon.com as of this writing

Sewist Reviews: Sewist love the clear instructions and photos provided in this guide.  It teaches you techniques that are not typically found in other books such as using woven fabrics like bed sheets to construct lingerie.  It is a great reference book for the home sewist looking to advance their skills in sewing lingerie. Not only will you be able to make great fitting underwear but it will be beautiful with the techniques outlined in this book. 

The Anatomy of the Bra by Laurie van Jonsson

Description: Laurie van Jonsson is an industry expert in lingerie and is known for her book “How to Become a Lingerie Designer”.  In her book, The Anatomy of the Bra, she gives you in depth knowledge on all components of a bra then will guide you through the design process.  She also provides an extensive list of resources on where to find bra making materials around the world. 

Rating: 3.6 stars out of 5 on Amazon.com as of this writing

Sewist Reviews: The reviews for this book were very mixed. Most reviewers agreed that the breakdown of the anatomy of the bra was helpful as well the resources provided but the rest fell short.  Keep this in mind if you want to invest in this book. 

The Bra-Makers Manual Volume 1: A Professional Approach to Bra Design, Draft, Fit and Construction by Beverly Johnson

Description: Beverly Johnson has taken her extensive knowledge in drafting and fitting bras and put it all in one place for you.  This book will teach a sewist to sew their own bras or bras for others of any size. You will learn how to draft a foundation pattern then use it to design a variety of styles to meet your needs and tastes. You will also learn about fabrics and home sewing techniques. 

Rating: No specific ratings for this book on Etsy but Beverly Johnson’s Etsy shop has a 5 star rating as of this writing.

Sewist Reviews: Reading through some of the reviews for Beverly Johnson’s shop, Bra Making Supplies, reviewers find her books to be great resources for anyone who loves to sew lingerie or wants to learn. If you are serious about lingerie design or are an aspiring designer this is a must-have book for your library. 

The Bra-Makers Manual Volume 2: Additional Techniques for Bra Design, Draft, Fit and Construction by Beverly Johnson

Description: If you loved The Bra-Makers Manual Volume 1 and have mastered the skills outlined in that book you are ready to graduate to Volume 2.  Beverly Johnson will teach you all you need to know to begin drafting your own custom bras as well as teach you to use advanced materials such as foam lining and laces. You will also learn about design, fit and construction. This is an invaluable reference great for aspiring lingerie designers or those already in the industry. You can purchase both volumes together at a discounted price. 

Rating: No specific ratings for this book on Etsy but Beverly Johnson’s Etsy shop has a 5 star rating as of this writing.

Sewist Reviews: Reading through some of the reviews for Beverly Johnson’s shop, Bra Making Supplies, reviewers find her books to be great resources for anyone who loves to sew lingerie or wants to learn. If you are serious about lingerie design or are an aspiring designer this is a must-have book for your library. 

Quick Note: Two Volume Set of The Bra-Makers Manual by Beverly Johnson also available.

The Secrets of Sewing Lingerie: Make Your Own Divine Knickers, Bras & Camisoles by Katherine Sheers & Laura Stanford

Description: The Secrets of Sewing Lingerie is a beautifully illustrated book with full patterns for bras, underwear, and camisoles and a step-by-step guide on how to create your very own lingerie wardrobe.  It is easy to get lost in the delicate designs and decorative techniques presented in this book.  This is a great book for all levels of sewists interested in lingerie. What I love about this book is the types of fabrics used in the examples such as silk and tulle as well as the vintage aesthetic.  There are even some extras in here like garter belts, suspenders, eye masks and a lingerie bag for travel.  

Rating: 4.5 stars out of 5 on Amazon.com as of this writing

Sewist Reviews: Sewist absolutely love this book. It has clear and concise instructions and excellent photos.  Not only is it well laid out with beautiful inspiration, it also comes with several patterns to get you started no matter your sewing ability. I personally have this book in my library and I love it!

Vintage Lingerie: 30 Patterns Based on Period Garments Plus Finishing Techniques by Jill Salen

Description: If you are looking for historically accurate lingerie patterns from 1850 to 1970 this is the book for you.  Developed with costume designers and those who love vintage lingerie in mind this book includes full working patterns for corsets, brassieres, girdles, petticoats and more. Furthermore, you will learn how to add historically accurate decorative elements to your vintage pieces. 

Rating: 4.2 stars out of 5 on Amazon.com as of this writing

Sewist Reviews: Sewist who loved this book were already more familiar with pattern drafting and vintage sewing.  Beginner sewist may have trouble with some aspects of the books because not everything is clearly explained and the patterns provided are in half scale.  For the most part, most vintage enthusiasts enjoyed the book but hoped it would have more accurate patterns. 

Where to Buy These Books

Click on the titles of any of the books listed above to direct you to Amazon.com or Etsy where you can purchase these books.

Conclusion

If you are a home sewist, aspiring lingerie designer, established lingerie designer or anyone in between, this is a comprehensive list that you can refer to when looking for your next set of skills, inspiration or to brush up on your lingerie making knowledge.  There are a variety of techniques and lessons available from sewists and designers with a range of experiences.  Each can teach us something different about bra making or can help us solve a design, construction or fit problem.  Having a bra making library to refer to is an essential for any sewist, designer or student who wants to broaden their lingerie sewing skills. Hope this list will help you on your journey in lingerie making!

Happy Sewing!