These days more and more men are getting into sewing. They definitely see the benefit of being able to customize your garments specifically to you. Men are on the hunt for a great pair of underwear just as much as women. There are an abundance of tutorials and patterns online for sewing boxers, boxer briefs, or plain ol’ underwear for men. Whether you are sewing a pair of briefs for yourself or you’re sewing some for your significant other, friend, child or for any other reason I have compiled a list of online resources to get you started. I also have instructions on how to sew boxer briefs, what type of fabric and supplies are needed as well as a list of patterns (both free and paid) available on the market.
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How do you sew boxer briefs?
First find a great pattern that works for you or your intended recipient. I have compiled a list below of where to find great boxer brief patterns. Next, gather your fabric and supplies. You will need a nice breathable knit fabric with good stretch and recovery. You will also need elastic but the size will vary depending on your chosen pattern. Once you cut out your pattern and your fabric, you can begin sewing. Make sure to setup your sewing machine so that it is optimized to sew knits. Finally, begin sewing by following your pattern’s instructions and using this guide to help you. Now, you have your first pair of handmade boxer briefs!
What are boxer briefs?
Boxer briefs are a common men’s undergarment. They have elements of both boxer shorts and briefs. They are typically the length of boxer shorts coupled with the tightness of a brief. They are specifically tighter around the crotch. It is common for boxer briefs to have a keyhole fly, no fly or a pouch. You will find most boxer briefs are made out of a breathable knit fabric with good compression, stretch and recovery.
Who wears boxer briefs?
Boxer briefs are designed for men; therefore, they typically wear boxer briefs although anyone can wear them. They are particularly beneficial for men who are physically active such as going to the gym or playing sports. They hold everything in place and absorb sweat for a more comfortable experience when running around or other activities.
Ready to Draft and Sew Boxer Briefs?
Supplies and Tools to Get You Started:
- Knit fabric with good stretch and recovery (preferable has some lycra or spandex content). Some options include:
- Cotton Jersey, Cotton Lycra, Spandex Blend, Supplex, Circular Knit and Brushed Poly
- For strictly boxer patterns you can use woven fabric instead.
- Waistband Elastic – try pajama elastic, it has good recovery and is comfortable to wear against the skin
- Elastic for leg openings (depending on the pattern) – try panty elastic or plush elastic – it is comfortable if sewn to areas that have direct contact with the skin
- Twin Needle – for finishing *optional
- Polyester thread
- Ballpoint needle
- Sewing machine
- Optional: If you plan on making lots of underthings then you may want to invest in a serger such as this one or a coverstitch machine. They create a cleaner more professional look.
- Medical paper for tracing (you can use kraft paper or tracing paper as well or be creative with whatever you have on hand)
- Pencil for tracing
- Eraser
- 18” clear ruler
- French curve
- Pins
- Fabric scissors
- Paper scissors
- Applique/embroidery scissors
- Tailor’s chalk
- Pattern Weights – can use anything from a coaster to a can to hacky sacks
Don’t want to draft your own copy of boxer briefs? Check out my article: Top 15 Boxer Brief Patterns for Men and Boys
Drafting Instructions: How to Copy a RTW Pair of Boxer Briefs
*Use a brand new pair of boxer briefs to avoid stretched out seams*
Step 1: For an exposed waistband – cut the elastic waistband leaving as little fabric connected to the waistband possible. Carefully separate your boxer briefs at the seams using your fabric scissors. Or you can simply carefully trace each piece of your boxer brief without separating it at the seams on drafting paper of your choice. For this pair of boxer briefs, there is no side seam. Rather there is a front seam, a back seam, a bottom (crotch) seam, and the pouch seam.
Step 2: Once cut, separate your pieces. These will act as your patterns.Your pattern inventory should be something like this:
- 1 back piece (this is the largest pattern piece)
- 2 leg panel pieces
- 2 pouch pieces with a half moon opening on opposite sides
- 2 crotch pieces
- 1 elastic waistband
If you did not cut your boxers but rather traced it out you should still have the same pattern inventory.
Step 3: If your new pattern pieces have wrinkles, give it a light press on a low setting.
Step 4: For those that cut their briefs at the seams take out your drafting paper – you can use medical paper, kraft paper, even newspaper. Just be sure you can see the traced outline clearly.
Step 5: Pin your fabric pieces to your drafting paper then outline your pieces in pencil.
Step 6: Whether you cut out your fabric at the seams or directly traced your boxers on drafting paper label each pattern piece accordingly:
- Back Pattern – Cut 1
- Front Leg Panel – Cut 2
- Front Pouch – Cut 2
- Crotch Panel – Cut 1
Step 7: Mark the grainline so you know to position your patterns correctly for the greatest stretch “DOGS” (Direction of Greatest Stretch) when you place it on the new fabric. Hint: Your greatest stretch should be horizontal to your body.
Step 8: Add a notch to the center back, the sides and the center front – this will indicate where to line up your elastic
Step 9: Smooth out your lines with an 18” clear plastic ruler, french curve and dark marker.
Step 10: Add a hem to the bottom of the boxer briefs – the amount is based on your preference.
Step 11: Add ¼” seam allowance all around the pattern except at the waistband (unless you cut too much then go ahead and fix that here).
Step 12: Cut out your new pattern – remember to use your paper scissors – not your fabric scissors!
Cutting Instructions:
Step 1: Layout your fabric – make sure you prewash you fabric.
Step 2: If you notice that your fabric is wrinkled then press it lightly with your iron on a low setting. If it’s not wrinkled then skip this step
Step 3: Lay your fabric out flat and look for the direction of greatest stretch. Do this by holding two opposite ends and pulling them away from each other. The way that stretches the most is the direction of greatest stretch.
Step 4: Lay your pattern down on your fabric. Make sure your lay your pattern down following which area you would like to have the direction of greatest stretch. Note: We marked the direction of greatest stretch on our patterns when we drafted.
Step 6: Pin your pattern pieces to your fabric or use pattern weights
Step 7: Optional – you can use tailor’s chalk to outline your pattern and then you can cut or you can cut it out directly. Remember to use your fabric scissors!
Step 8: Make sure you have all your pieces cut out –
- Back Pattern – Cut 1
- Front Leg Panel – Cut 2
- Front Pouch – Cut 2
- Crotch Panel – Cut 1
Of course this depends on your specific brief so your pattern piece assortment may be different from mine.
Cutting out your Elastic:
Note: You may want to come back to this once your boxer briefs are sewn together so you can get a proper measurement of each opening (i.e. circumference of waist opening)
Step 1: Measure around the perimeter of the waistband opening then subtract 2” from each.
Step 2: Cut your elastic based on these measurements. You will have one piece of elastic.
Sewing Instructions:
Remember you are sewing a knit fabric which can be easily warped if the settings of your machine are not correct.
Here are some quick tips for sewing with knits:
When sewing with stretchy fabrics there are a few things to be aware of to sew a knit garment successfully. First, never stretch the fabric while sewing or the stitch will hold that stretch in place causing the fabric to warp. To avoid this, adjust the pressure on the presser foot to be loose enough to allow the feed dogs to move the fabric gently on their own with minimal guidance from you. Another tip is to sew in the direction of least stretch if possible. Also, be sure to adjust your thread tension to a low setting and lower your length and width stitch to achieve a narrow zigzag stitch.
When sewing with knits keep the following in mind:
- Using the correct machine needle – ballpoint needle
- Using the proper thread – polyester thread
- Setting your machine for the proper stitch – zig zag stitch
- Low thread length and width settings
- All-purpose or straight stitch presser foot
- Troubleshooting your machine when problems arise
If you need more guidance check out this article here: How To Sew Lingerie On A Regular Sewing Machine
On to the sewing instructions…
For this project I recommend using a serger sewing machine and a twin needle on your regular sewing machine or a zigzag stitch. If you have a coverstitch machine you can use that instead but my instructions are for a serger and twin needle or zigzag stitch.
Step 1: Locate your two pouch pieces. Finish the edges with your serger. Locate the pouch opening on one of your pieces. Fold in the lip once then a second time for a clean edge. Use your twin needle or zigzag stitch to finish the edge. Repeat this step for the second pouch piece.
Step 2: Baste your two pouch pieces together. The pouch openings should face opposite directions. The “good side” of the fabric should face out for the outside pouch piece and the “good side” of the other pouch should face the body.
Step 3: Sew the leg panels to the back pattern piece (good sides facing each other) using your serger. Finish with the twin needle or zigzag stitch by folding the inside serged seam toward the back of the garment then sewing over it with your twin needle or zigzag stitch.
Step 4: Match the pouch to the leg opening (good sides facing each other) depending on which side you want the opening to be on when worn. Pin, then use your serger to sew together. Repeat this for the opposite leg panel and other side of the pouch. Finish with the twin needle or zigzag stitch. All your pieces should be connected at this point except the crotch panel and waistband.
Step 5: Sewing on side at a time; pin the crotch panel to the bottom opening with right sides facing other then sew with your serger. Finish with your twin needle or zigzag stitch.
Step 6: Clean up your leg openings then hem. Fold in the hem once then a second time and finish with the twin needle or zigzag stitch.
Step 7: Look over your garment and see if you need to go over anything with a twin needle.
Step 8: Take out your elastic band and measure it against your sewn waist opening then subtract 2” and cut.
Step 9: Overlap the raw edges of the waistband elastic by about 1/2” then stitch.
Step 10: Divide the waistband four ways and mark each with a pin.
Step 11: Line up the seam of the waistband with either side seam of the briefs (these should be marked by notches).
Step 12: Overlap the elastic band (right side facing out) over the right side of the brief. This should look exactly the same as the RTW brief.
Step 13: Stretch the elastic so that the pins match at both side seam notches and center front and center back notches. Pin then use a zigzag stitch while making sure to stretch the elastic to match the length of the fabric as you sew.
Step 14: Once sewn, zigzag stitch around the perimeter of the waistband for added strength and durability.
Step 15: Finish and trim off any excess threads.
Conclusion
Congratulations! You have just successfully drafted and sewn a pair of boxer briefs! Not too bad right? My biggest takeaway from this project is to make sure you have really great fabric with excellent recovery – anything with about 5% spandex or lycra blended into the fibers is great. You also want fabric that is soft to the touch and breathable. Not to mention your thread – whatever you do get strong polyester thread. You don’t want your briefs falling apart on you mid-wear. How embarrassing would that be! Also, be sure to buy a high quality elastic band that doesn’t warp easily from wear or a simple wash and dry. Make sure it is comfortable against your skin. If you can get this fabric, thread, elastic combination then I think sewing many more briefs will be in your future.
Happy sewing!
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