I think one of the most complicated things for first time bra makers is the perplexing question of… How do they get that underwire inside the bra? Once you decide you are going to try it then comes the confusion of what type of underwire to buy. Who knew this was so complicated? Well, this step in and of itself is actually pretty simple. The steps leading up are a little more complicated as they really have been prepping the bra for the underwire all along.
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How do you Sew Underwire into a Bra?
- Determine the style of underwire needed
- Determine the appropriate size needed for your underwire
- Determine which side of the underwire needs to be on the bra bridge and which side needs to be under the arm.
- Insert the underwire into the bra channeling. (This should already be attached to your bra)
- Close the channeling
- Move on to the next steps for completing your bra
Only a few steps but it sure is a lot of information that is needed leading up to sewing your underwire into your bra. Read on to determine your underwire style, underwire size, understanding how your underwire works and ultimately a detailed step-by-step tutorial on how to insert your underwire into your new bra.
What is an underwire?
A bra underwire is a half circle shape that is made out of steel gauge wire. It comes in a variety of shapes and sizes depending on the type of bra it is supporting. For example, a plunge bra requires a special underwire that does not extend between the bridge of the bra since the idea is to show more cleavage.
What is underwire used for?
Underwires are added to bras to create a more structured appearance. They typically offer more support and lift than a soft cup bra although new advances in bra design have made strides in supportive soft cup bras. Nonetheless, underwires create support by distributing the weight of the breast tissue and holding that tissue in place to create an appealing yet natural shape.
Types of Underwire
Classified by Material:
- Steel gauge
- Steel gauge nylon coated
- Steel gauge with soft plastic coating
- Flat Metal
Classified by Gauge:
- Heavy gauge
- Medium gauge
- Thin gauge
Classified by Style:
- Vertical
- Short
- Regular
- Long
- Extra Long
- Super Long
- Strapless
- Half
- Semi
- Demi
- Plunge
How to Sew Underwire into a Bra: A Detailed Step-by-Step Tutorial
Step 1: Determine the Style of Underwire Needed
First we need to figure out the underwire that will work best for you. Here are some questions to ask yourself:
- How much support will I need?
- What type of underwire does my bra need?
To best answer these questions you will need to know the specific bra you plan on sewing and what your personal preferences are. You may prefer a more supportive bra because you have a larger bust and need to make sure the weight of your breasts are more evenly distributed. If this is the case then you will probably need a thicker wire gauge. If you do not like the feel of a thicker gauge then it is possible to use a medium or thinner gauge but be sure the other parts of your bra can make up for the weight distribution such as the bra band (specifically the type of material used – such as powernet) and bra straps. Both band and bra straps should be wider and be sure the bridge between the cups is sturdy and a comfortable width apart.
If you decide to use a medium or thin gauge underwire and you have a smaller bust size then you can use a narrower bra band and bra strap size. You have more variety in the type of fabric needed for your bra (more on bra fabrics HERE).
The type of underwire you ultimately decide on should be based on the bra or garment you are sewing. That will help you determine the appropriate size and length whether that be a short underwire, demi underwire or regular underwire. There are a variety to choose from but the pattern will determine the right length then you will determine what is most comfortable for you.
Step 2: Determine the Appropriate Size Needed for your Underwire
Sizing is determined based on a combination of your cup size and band size. When looking for your size on an underwire chart you will notice that the B cup size is used as the standard marker to move up or down a size. This means that if you are a B cup no matter your band size your underwire size will be the same as your band size. For example, if you are a 32B then your underwire will be a size 32. If you are a 32C then your underwire size is 34 because you moved up a cup size. If you are a 32A then your underwire size will be 30.
For two helpful techniques on how to measure your correct underwire size and a handy underwire size chart you can use if you already feel confident in your bra size go to my article: How to Find Your Underwire Size.
Step 3: Insert your Underwire into your Bra Channeling.
At this point, your bra should have the underwire channeling sewing onto the bra. The portion of the channeling at the bridge should be secured with a narrow zigzag stitch to hold the center front underwire in place. The channeling under the arm should still have an opening where you will now insert the underwire.
Determine which side of the underwire needs to be on the bra bridge and which side needs to be under the arm. Start by finding the underwire center front. This will typically be the shorter side depending on the type of bra you are sewing. Insert your underwire into the bra channeling with the center front of the wire inserted all the way to the secured narrow zigzag stitch at the bridge of the bra.
Step 4: Close the channeling
Close the channeling off at the underarm just above the underwire with a sturdy bartack. You want to make sure that the underwire will stay in place. Trim the excess channeling on both ends up to the bartack.
Step 5: Move on to the Next Steps for Completing your Bra
Refer to your pattern’s instructions.
Tips, Tricks & Related Questions
How do I fix the underwire in my bra?
Here are some common issues with bra underwire and quick fixes:
Underwire poking the sides of your breasts
What this means: Are you familiar with the feeling of a round tip wire digging into the side of your breasts? Not a fun experience. This happens when your underwire is too small for your frame. This can be a common issue for teenage girls who are still developing. One day their bra fits just great then over time that underwire starts poking at them without warning. Either way, it is time to move up a cup size.
Underwire poking your arm
What this means: If your underwire is poking or grazing against your inner arm instead then it is too big. You need to size down your cup and possibly your band size because your underwire is too large for your frame. It is important to take your height into account when looking for the right size. Your torso may be longer or shorter which can change the way your underwire fits you.
Can I take the wire out of a bra?
Yes, you can remove the underwire from your bra by simply unstitching the closure at the underarm. Likely, you will have to undo the elastic that lines the underarm area. Be careful not to damage the elastic because you will need to sew it back in place. Once you carefully unstitch the portion of the elastic that is covering the underwire channel opening then open up the stitching that is securing the channeling closed. Carefully remove the underwire then sew the channeling back up with a narrow zigzag stitch or bartack and sew the elastic back in place with a zigzag stitch.
Why does the underwire in my bra keep coming out?
Your underwire could be coming out because the underwire channel was not properly secured or if it has torn through the underwire channel it is too big. See common issues a couple paragraphs above.
Where to Buy Underwire?
Check out my Recommended Notions page to find my picks on Underwire.
If you want to explore more online retailers that carry underwire check out my article on the 18 Must Have Bra Making Supplies and scroll through to find these supplies. I have a detailed list of online retailers across the globe that carry underwire.
Conclusion
Yay you’re almost finished with your underwire bra! If you want some more detailed tutorials on specific bra making steps check out these articles:
- How to Sew Underwire Channeling
- How to Sew Adjustable Bra Straps
- How to Attach a Bra Strap Onto a Bra
- How to Sew a Hook and Eye Closure Onto a Bra
Happy Bra-Making!
