When you dive into the world of bra making and sewing lingerie you may find that you already have many of the tools needed. However, there are a few more tools that might make your projects look more seamless and professional. I will be listing all tools needed including those that you may already have. This quick guide was written to pack in as much useful information as possible to help you on your journey.
What Tools Should Every Bra Maker Have?
Home sewing machine with a zigzag stitch option, ball-point machine needle, polyester thread, silk pins, rotary cutter, cutting mat, and applique trimmer.
Let’s dig in so you know what these things are and how to get to the next level!
My Tools & Supplies:
My home sewing machine used to be my mom’s. She didn’t really have use for it anymore and let me “borrow” it. I use a Kenmore sewing machine that I believe was bought at Sears. I have been using this machine for many years. Including when I was getting my bachelors degree in Apparel Merchandising, Management, and Production. It has seen me through many sewing projects from my very first self-drafted skirt all the way to my very first bra and many more thereafter. What a relief that the most expensive item needed to sew bras is something you already have, right?! Below I will list the necessary features your home sewing machine should have to get you started.
I was also lucky enough to receive a Brother 1034D 3/4 Thread Serger as a Christmas gift from my husband. I absolutely love this machine. It is perfect to sew up a quick pair of underwear but also allows clean seams when bra making. If you are thinking about purchasing your very first serger I highly recommend this machine.
Sewing Machines:
If you are venturing into bra making or sewing lingerie then you likely have a sewing machine already. Your standard home sewing machine is really all you need unless you plan on selling your makes. There are a few important features to look for that come standard on most machines these days. Here’s what to look for:
- Zig-zag stitch
- 3 step zig-zag stitch
- Stretch stitch – instead of an overlock but this is not necessary
- Types of presser foots: straight stitch and an all-purpose foot
If you want to take your lingerie sewing and bra making to the next level I highly recommend investing in an overlock machine aka serger. Listed below is the machine I use. There are plenty of other machines in the marketplace but this is a great introductory home overlock machine. I think you’ll really love it!
Serger/Overlock Machine:
Brother 1034D 3/4 Thread Serger with Differential Feed
You can also consider investing in a coverstitch machine. A coverstitch machine sews a coverstitch (I’m sure you gathered that!) on the hem of a knit fabric and allows that fabric to have maximum stretch. I do not personally own one but I know that people like it because it offers a clean, polished look to their garments not just their bras and lingerie.
There is also the option of purchasing an overlock/coverstitch combo machine like this one on Amazon.com.
Machine Needles:
Your sewing machine should have come with a universal needle. It probably came with a few extra needles as well. Those extras may just be universal or they may be a different size. When starting out you can use a universal needle but eventually you should invest in a ball-point needle or stretch needle. This is a finer tip needle that doesn’t break the fibers. Rather the needle point separates the fibers which is important for maintaining strength when sewing a knit fabric. Check out the list below for more machine needle options.
- Ball-point or “jersey” needle
- Universal needle
- Stretch needle
- Twin needle – creates the look of a coverstitch using a standard machine
- Coverstitch needle
Thread:
Have you ever been in the thread aisle of a fabric store? Of course you have! You’re a home sewist afterall. It can be a bit overwhelming if you aren’t sure what you are looking for. When it comes to bra making and lingerie sewing a polyester thread is highly recommended. Polyester thread is stronger than cotton. Cotton is likely to break as it cannot withstand the stretch necessary for bras and other lingerie. Stretch is a vital feature in all lingerie whether that be with your fabric or notions. Thread is no exception. My favorite brand it Gutermann which can find at several retailers.
Pins or Clips:
Pins come in a variety of lengths and sizes. You can likely get away with using what you have but keep in mind that your bra and lingerie fabrics are delicate and the wrong needle can cause damage pretty quickly. That is why an ultra-fine pin or silk pin it recommended. You can even use clips to avoid the holes all together!
Cutting tools:
One of the best things that ever happened to my lingerie sewing toolkit was adding a rotary cutter. Those tedious twists and turns were conquered at last! As a home sewist I’m sure you already have a great pair of fabric shears (if you don’t please do yourself a favor and invest in pair right now!) but bras and lingerie are a little more high maintenance when it comes to cutting tools. Here is a list of what you need to cut out and clean up your pieces flawlessly.
- Fabric shears
- Duckbill applique scissors
- Applique trimmers
- Rotary cutter and blades (Sizes: 28mm)
- Cutting mat
Pressing:
I don’t think I need to reiterate the need for an iron and ironing board for any kind of sewing. This is a must for all sewists but when it comes to bra making the next level of pressing gear, if you will, is a tailor’s ham, bust cup seam press and the knob. These all make pressing your cups just that much easier for a crisp, professional look and feel.
- Iron
- Ironing board
- Tailor’s ham
- Bust cup seam press
- The knob
Pattern Drafting:
The tools listed below are not only necessary for those of you who want to start drafting your own bras and lingerie but they are very handy if you are making alterations to patterns. Instead of eyeballing how much needs to be taken in or let out you can rely on these tools to get you the fit you need. Who wants to wear a bra or lingerie that doesn’t fit correctly? Isn’t that the whole point of sewing your own anyway? My favorite of all the tools in the 18” clear ruler, hands down no questions asked.
Other tools and supplies:
Here are a few tools to make your life a little easier when bra making and sewing lingerie. Tapes! Seam tape can be placed over cup seams instead of lining especially for those fabrics where lining is not necessary. Stay tape is great for keeping slippery fabrics together- you can use adhesive spray too! Pattern weights are needed for when you are cutting out your pattern. You don’t need to buy weights that are specific to patterns. You can use anything with weight around the house like a coaster, jar, or can for instance. Another good tool is a tube turner to make straps – it turns them inside out but you can use the bobby pin trick instead. (I’ll show you how to do that in another post!)
- Seam tape/Stay tape
- Pattern weights
- Tube turner or bobby pin
- Adhesive Spray
Conclusion
Wow now that’s a lot of tools! What is listed here is meant for you to reference as you delve further and further into bra making and lingerie sewing. What you really need to get started are these simple tools: Home sewing machine with a zigzag stitch option, ball-point machine needle, polyester thread, silk pins, rotary cutter, cutting mat, and applique trimmer. As long as you have these and a CAN DO attitude you can tackle any bra or lingerie project!
Happy lingerie making!