You might think that the only way to get into sewing lingerie is by using a serger sewing machine. While it might make it easier that simply isn’t true! I use a regular home sewing machine on my lingerie projects all the time and you can too.
How to sew a bra at home on a regular home sewing machine
- Check your settings: Use a stretch stitch such as a 3-step zig zag stitch
- What type of needle are you using – a universal needle is fine to start
- Make sure you are using polyester thread
- Test your fabric on your adjusted settings first
- If all goes smoothly then get started!
What to look for in a sewing machine:
A combination of the four bullets below should suffice for successful lingerie making. The most basic necessity is a zig-zag stitch capability and an all-purpose presser foot.
- Zig-zag stitch
- 3 step zig-zag stitch
- Stretch stitch – instead of an overlock but this is not necessary
- Types of presser foots: straight stitch and an all-purpose foot
Sewing Machine Settings for Bras and Other Lingerie
Sewing lingerie usually means you will be dealing with stretchy fabrics. Sewing with fabrics that have stretch requires a few things from your machine to improve the strength and quality of your garment. Let’s dive into detail on what that is and why it is necessary.
- Using the correct machine needle
- Using the proper thread
- Setting your machine for the proper stitch
- All-purpose or straight stitch presser foot
- Troubleshooting your machine when problems arise
Machine Needles:
Your sewing machine should have come with a universal needle. It probably came with a few extra needles as well. Those extras may just be universal or they may be a different size. When starting out you can use a universal needle but eventually you should invest in a ball-point needle or stretch needle. This is a finer tip needle that doesn’t break the fibers. Rather the needle point separates the fibers which is important for maintaining strength when sewing a knit fabric.
Thread:
When it comes to bra making and lingerie sewing a polyester thread is highly recommended. Polyester thread is stronger than cotton. Cotton is likely to break as it cannot withstand the stretch necessary for bras and other lingerie. Stretch is a vital feature in all lingerie whether that be with your fabric or notions. Thread is no exception. My favorite brand it Gutermann which can find at several retailers.
Thread Tension Settings:
It is important to test the thread tension for each type of fabric you are sewing. When it comes to knit fabrics a lower thread tension is necessary. You want to avoid the fabric stretching unnecessarily to keep the integrity of the garment. The feed dogs should really be doing the work by gently moving the fabric along. Try a thread tension of one or two to start.
Stitch Type:
- Zig-zag Stitch
- 3 Step Zig-zag Stitch
- Stretch Stitch
Zig-zag/3 Step Zig-zag Stitch:
If you do not have an overlock machine the zig-zag and 3 step zig-zag stitch are right for you. The zigzag stitch is just that- a zigzag. It is a strong stitch that locks in the raw edge of the fabric tightly but still allows stretch because of the zigzag motion of the thread. The 3 step zig-zag takes the same form but it makes three straight stitches from one point to the next point of the zig zag. The 3 step zig-zag is stronger than the standard zig-zag which is preferable for lingerie since it allows the fabric to stretch while being worn.
Stretch Stitch:
This is also known as a triple stretch stitch. It is essentially three straight stitches in a row which makes it very strong and reduces thread popping. This is great for form fitting garments such a lingerie. This stitch does not usually come standard on many introductory machines but it is good to be aware of it so you know what to look for.
Presser Foot:
- All-Purpose
- Straight Stitch
All-Purpose Presser Foot:
The presser foot holds the fabric down against the feed allowing it to be stitched. Your machine should have come with an all-purpose presser foot. This type of presser foot is used for sewing most types of fabrics and stitches. If you are new to sewing and your machine, it is ok to use this presser foot for a variety of garments including lingerie. This will give you an opportunity to get a hang of sewing lingerie fabrics on your new machine.
Straight Stitch Presser Foot:
Once you gain more experience, you can consider a straight stitch presser foot. This presser foot sews a short stitch that is intended for a more delicate fabric perfect for lingerie. It can also handle heavy fabrics well if you want to sew something other than lingerie. Your machine may come with this presser foot in it’s toolkit. If so, be sure to read up on how to install it properly in your owner’s manual as well as best practices for sewing with this presser foot.
Presser Foot Settings:
When sewing with knit fabrics be sure to loosen the pressure on your presser foot. This will allow your fabric to glide over the feed dogs rather than pull or stretch over them.
Machine Settings for Lingerie Fabrics
Sewing lingerie means you need to understand how to sew knit/stretchy fabric. Here is a list of common stretchy/knit fabrics used in lingerie making. Fabrics with stretch are commonly used for the bra band and underwear. Stretch fabrics can be used in other areas of the bra but will need to be stabilized with a more rigid fabric. For more on non-stretch bra and lingerie making fabrics keep reading!
Stretch Fabrics:
When sewing with stretchy fabrics there are a few things to be aware of to sew a knit garment successfully. First, never stretch the fabric while sewing or the stitch will hold that stretch in place causing the fabric to warp. To avoid this, adjust the pressure on the presser foot to be loose enough to allow the feed dogs to move the fabric gently on their own with minimal guidance from you. Another tip is to sew in the direction of least stretch if possible. Also, be sure to adjust your thread tension to a low setting and lower your length and width stitch to achieve a narrow zigzag stitch.
Powernet/power mesh
These two terms are often used interchangeably; however, powernet is more dense than powermesh. They are both strong supportive fabric that can have varying degrees of stretch with great recovery. This fabric is ideal for shapewear as it conforms to the natural contours of your body perfect for a bra band.
Machine settings for powernet/powermesh fabric:
- Stitch: Stretch stitch, zig zag stitch, 3 step zig zag stitch
- Length: Low
- Width: Low
- Thread Tension: 1 or 2
- Needle: Ballpoint or stretch
- Presser foot: All-purpose or straight
Stretch Spandex
This is a lightweight knit with spandex fibers that has a firm stretch. It conforms to your body’s contours while allowing you to comfortably move and breathe when used as a band.
Machine settings for stretch spandex fabric:
- Stitch: Stretch stitch, zig zag stitch, 3 step zig zag stitch
- Length: Low
- Width: Low
- Thread Tension: 1 or 2
- Needle: Ballpoint or stretch
- Presser foot: All-purpose or straight
Jersey Knit
This is a single knit stretch fabric commonly used for t-shirts or underwear. This fabric is recommended for smaller cup sizes.
Machine settings for jersey knit fabric:
- Stitch: Stretch stitch, zig zag stitch, 3 step zig zag stitch
- Length: Low
- Width: Low
- Thread Tension: 1 or 2
- Needle: Ballpoint or stretch
- Presser foot: All-purpose or straight
Little to No Stretch Fabrics:
If this is your first time sewing a bra the best fabric for you to try is a duoplex, tricot, or a jersey knit.
Duoplex
This is a low-stretch knit fabric made of 100% polyester. It is ideal for your first attempt in bra making because it is stable enough that you do not need to line the cup when using this fabric.
Machine settings for Duoplex fabric:
- Stitch: Stretch stitch, zig zag stitch, 3 step zig zag stitch
- Length: Low
- Width: Low
- Thread Tension: 2 or 3
- Needle: Ballpoint or stretch
- Presser foot: All-purpose or straight
Simplex
This is a nylon knit with minimal stretch commonly used without a lining or for swimsuits.
Machine settings for Simplex fabric:
- Stitch: Stretch stitch, zig zag stitch, 3 step zig zag stitch
- Length: Low
- Width: Low
- Thread Tension: 2 or 3
- Needle: Ballpoint or stretch
- Presser foot: All-purpose or straight
Tricot
This is a run-resistant knit that is thin and smooth in texture yet durable enough for lingerie, swimwear or sportswear. Tricot can be made of 100% polyester like the duoplex variety or nylon. Note that duoplex and simplex are a type of tricot fabric.
Machine settings for Tricot fabric:
- Stitch: Stretch stitch, zig zag stitch, 3 step zig zag stitch
- Length: Low
- Width: Low
- Thread Tension: 2 or 3
- Needle: Ballpoint or stretch
- Presser foot: All-purpose or straight
Bra Lining Fabrics
15 Denier Nylon
This is a sheer lightweight fabric with light support. It is 100% nylon and it is recommended that you cut on bias because stretch on the cross grain of stretch.
Machine settings for 15 denier nylon:
- Stitch: Straight stitch
- Length: Low
- Width: Low
- Thread Tension: 3
- Needle: Universal
- Presser foot: All-purpose or straight
Stretch Mesh
This is made of nylon and spandex. It is a versatile fabric that is primarily used in bra making to line a stretch lace cup.
Machine settings for stretch mesh:
- Stitch: Stretch stitch, zig zag stitch, 3 step zig zag stitch
- Length: Low
- Width: Low
- Thread Tension: 1 or 2
- Needle: Universal
- Presser foot: All-purpose or straight
Sheer Bra Cup Lining
This is a strong, supportive 100% nylon fabric. It is ideally used to line under stretch lace or sheer fabric. It can also be used for the bridge because of its minimal to no stretch characteristics.
Machine settings for sheer bra cup lining:
- Stitch: Straight stitch
- Length: Low
- Width: Low
- Thread Tension: 3
- Needle: Universal
- Presser foot: All-purpose or straight
Troubleshooting your Machine:
Its bound to happen. Your machine goes on the fritz. It has happened to me many times. Some common issues are your needle needs to be replaced, your machine needs to be cleaned and oiled, you’re using the wrong thread, your thread tension is too high or too low, you did not thread your machine properly, your bobbin thread is tangled or stuck, or presser foot is too tight or too loose. Always refer to your machine’s manual for the best instructions on how to troubleshoot your machine. Knowing your manual is a must and will make your life so much easier when problems arise.
Recommendations on Standard Home Sewing Machines:
Budget friendly: Janome 2212 Sewing Machine
This is a great introductory model at an affordable price ($189.00 on Amazon.com). It features 12 built-in stitches, four-step buttonhole, dial pattern selection and zig-zag stitch width adjustment and stitch length adjustment. It also has a free arm and drop feed. It is well rated on Amazon.com – 4.3 out of 5 stars with 77% five star ratings.
Mid-range: JUKI HZL-F300 Sewing and Quilting Machine
The Juki F300 comes in at $579.00 on Amazon.com. This is a quality machine from a great brand that makes awesome industrial sewing machines. The Juki F300 comes with 106 stitch patterns, 3 fonts and a free arm. It includes 16 automatic electronic sensor controlled buttonholes and an automatic one touch needle threader and thread cutting. Many reviewers said this machine is very quiet which is great for nighttime sewing. You can also see the bobbin so you know when it is about to run out. It is well rated on Amazon.com – 4.3 out of 5 starts with 68% five star ratings.
Splurge: Juki Exceed F600 Quilt & Pro Special
If you really want to go all out consider the next level of the Juki Exceed series. This machine is $1049.00 on Amazon.com and very well reviewed. There are many great sewing machines in this price point from several different brands such as Bernina and Pfaff but Juki holds up well considering they are a leader in industrial sewing machines. This machine features the following:
- Box feed technology
- 16 buttonhole types
- Handles light to heavy weight material
- Can use stitches at random
- Extended sewing table
- Free motion sewing
- Stable thread tension
- Trim the needle and bobbin thread with the foot control
- Ability to raise and lower the presser foot with a knee-lifting lever
- Dual LED
- Powerful feed
- Sensor method buttonhole
- Automatic needle threader
- Easy bobbin thread winding
The Juki Exceed F600 has 4.8 out of 5 stars on Amazon.com with 90% five star ratings and 10% four star ratings.
If you want to take your lingerie sewing and bra making to the next level I highly recommend investing in an overlock machine aka serger. Listed below is the machine I use. There are plenty of other machines in the marketplace but this is a great introductory home overlock machine. I think you’ll really love it!
Conclusion
I hope this guide has given you an abundance of information on how to sew lingerie on your home sewing machine. As long as you understand knit fabrics and are willing to test the settings on your machine then you will be able to sew lingerie with ease. Not all machines will adhere to these guidelines so please always refer to your machine’s manual for your particular situation. At the very least, I hope this gets you started in the right direction.
Happy lingerie making!